Sew a Stunning Vintage Wool Coat: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

Updated at: 21/03/2025

Vintage wool coats exude timeless elegance and unparalleled warmth, a quality rarely matched by modern outerwear. Their rich textures, classic silhouettes, and enduring style make them coveted pieces, but finding the perfect one can be a challenge. Why not create your own? This tutorial empowers you to sew a stunning vintage-inspired wool coat, perfectly tailored to your measurements and style preferences. Imagine the satisfaction of crafting a garment that will become a cherished part of your wardrobe for years to come.

This step-by-step guide will walk you through each stage of the process, from selecting the perfect wool fabric and cutting precise patterns to mastering the intricacies of sewing a beautiful, professional-looking finish. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or a confident beginner, this comprehensive tutorial provides the knowledge and confidence you need to achieve a truly remarkable result. Prepare to unleash your creativity and sew your dream vintage wool coat.

Preparation and Safety Guidelines

Tools Needed
  • Wool fabric (4 yards)
  • Lining fabric (2 yards)
  • Simplicity 9718 pattern
  • Fusible interfacing
  • Chalk or water-soluble marker (Adker Chaco Ace pen recommended)
  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Iron
  • Basting thread
  • Corner tool
  • Shoulder pads
  • Sewing needles
  • Measuring tape
Safety Guidelines
  • Always use sharp needles and pins to prevent accidental pricks and ensure clean stitches. Blunt needles can cause fabric damage and frustration.
  • Handle vintage wool carefully to avoid stretching or damaging delicate fibers. Press with a low-heat iron using a pressing cloth to prevent scorching.
  • When working with vintage patterns, be aware that sizing may differ from modern standards. Always check your measurements against the pattern's sizing chart before cutting your fabric.

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Pocket Construction

    • Cut pattern pieces and mark pockets using a water-soluble marker.
    • Prepare welts by folding in half (wrong sides together) and basting if desired.
    • Fuse fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric in the pocket area and press.
    • Stitch the rectangle, pin welts to the front of the garment, and stitch point-to-point.
    Stitch the rectangle, pin welts to the front of the garment, and stitch point-to-point.Stitch the rectangle, pin welts to the front of the garment, and stitch point-to-point.Stitch the rectangle, pin welts to the front of the garment, and stitch point-to-point.Stitch the rectangle, pin welts to the front of the garment, and stitch point-to-point.
    Pocket Construction
    • Cut open the pocket, avoiding the welts, flip inside out, and press neatly.
    • this method is used due to stretchy fabric; a more standard method is recommended for less-stretchy fabrics).
    • Press the pocket facing and top stitch.
    Press the pocket facing and top stitch.Press the pocket facing and top stitch.Press the pocket facing and top stitch.
    Pocket Construction

  2. Coat Body Assembly

    • Mark and sew shoulder darts, pressing them towards the back.
    • Pin and sew shoulder seams at a ½ inch seam allowance.
    • Pin and sew the center back seam at a ½ inch seam allowance.
    • Pin the under collar to the shoulders and back neck, sew at ½ inch seam allowance, and optionally baste before machine stitching.
    Pin the under collar to the shoulders and back neck, sew at ½ inch seam allowance, and optionally baste before machine stitching.Pin the under collar to the shoulders and back neck, sew at ½ inch seam allowance, and optionally baste before machine stitching.Pin the under collar to the shoulders and back neck, sew at ½ inch seam allowance, and optionally baste before machine stitching.Pin the under collar to the shoulders and back neck, sew at ½ inch seam allowance, and optionally baste before machine stitching.
    Coat Body Assembly
    • Clip the coat neck edge up to the stitching for a better lay.
    Clip the coat neck edge up to the stitching for a better lay.
    Coat Body Assembly

  3. Sleeve Construction

    • Add stabilizer around the armholes and stitch around at slightly less than ½ inch seam allowance.
    • Fold sleeves in half and sew up to the notch at a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance flat, flip inside out, and sew decorative vent from notch to notch.
    • Clip corners and use a corner tool to sharpen them. Catch stitch and top stitch sleeve hem.
    Clip corners and use a corner tool to sharpen them. Catch stitch and top stitch sleeve hem.Clip corners and use a corner tool to sharpen them. Catch stitch and top stitch sleeve hem.Clip corners and use a corner tool to sharpen them. Catch stitch and top stitch sleeve hem.Clip corners and use a corner tool to sharpen them. Catch stitch and top stitch sleeve hem.
    Sleeve Construction

  4. Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Attachment

    • Baste the sleeve to the armhole and sew at a ½ inch seam allowance.
    • Hand-stitch shoulder pads, positioning the thick part towards the armhole and thin part towards the neck.
    Hand-stitch shoulder pads, positioning the thick part towards the armhole and thin part towards the neck.Hand-stitch shoulder pads, positioning the thick part towards the armhole and thin part towards the neck.Hand-stitch shoulder pads, positioning the thick part towards the armhole and thin part towards the neck.Hand-stitch shoulder pads, positioning the thick part towards the armhole and thin part towards the neck.
    Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Attachment

  5. Lining Preparation

    • Sew darts and center back seam of the lining.
    • Sew shoulder seams of the facing at a ½ inch seam allowance.
    Sew shoulder seams of the facing at a ½ inch seam allowance.Sew shoulder seams of the facing at a ½ inch seam allowance.Sew shoulder seams of the facing at a ½ inch seam allowance.
    Lining Preparation

  6. Collar Attachment

    • Pin and sew the upper collar to the facing, matching notches. Clip curves and press seams open.
    • Pin and baste (highly recommended) the facing/upper collar to the coat/under collar, ensuring seam allowances are open.
    • Sew at ½ inch seam allowance, clip corners, and flip inside out.
    Sew at ½ inch seam allowance, clip corners, and flip inside out.Sew at ½ inch seam allowance, clip corners, and flip inside out.Sew at ½ inch seam allowance, clip corners, and flip inside out.
    Collar Attachment

  7. Hemming and Top Stitching

    • Fold and catch stitch the hem, basting the facing and coat together first, then top stitch at ½ inch seam allowance.
    Fold and catch stitch the hem, basting the facing and coat together first, then top stitch at ½ inch seam allowance.
    Hemming and Top Stitching

  8. Lining Attachment - Neck and Back

    • Stitch lining to the back neck edge, flip inside out, and press sleeve and bottom hems.
    • Clip the back neck lining to the stitching.
    Clip the back neck lining to the stitching.Clip the back neck lining to the stitching.
    Lining Attachment - Neck and Back

  9. Lining Attachment - Body and Sleeves

    • Pin and sew the lining to the facing, right sides together, starting from the center back. Continue pinning and sewing, matching seams.
    • Sew the lining to the facing at ½ inch seam allowance, stopping 1 inch above the coat hem.
    • Flip lining inside out, push sleeve lining into sleeves, and fold lining hem 1 inch above the coat hem. Trim excess lining if needed.
    • Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.
    Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.Fold raw edge down ¼ inch and slip stitch the hem.
    Lining Attachment - Body and Sleeves
    • Slip stitch the folded edge of the lining over the sleeve, securing the raw edge.
    • Remove the washable marker, and tuck and hand-stitch the lining at seams as needed.
    Remove the washable marker, and tuck and hand-stitch the lining at seams as needed.Remove the washable marker, and tuck and hand-stitch the lining at seams as needed.
    Lining Attachment - Body and Sleeves

Read more: Raglan Sleeve Sewing Tutorial: A Step-by-Step Guide

Tips

  • Always make a muslin prototype first to practice techniques like pockets and notch collars.
  • Use a water-soluble marker (like Adker Chaco Ace pen) for easy marking and removal.
  • Baste before machine stitching, especially for tricky areas like the notch collar.
  • Take your time and don't rush, especially when working with a challenging project like a coat.
  • Use a corner tool to create sharp corners.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Incorrect Pattern Placement

Reason: Placing the pattern pieces incorrectly on the fabric can lead to ill-fitting coat sections and asymmetrical features.
Solution: Carefully check the pattern instructions and grainlines before cutting.

2. Uneven Seam Allowance

Reason: Inconsistent seam allowances will cause the coat to hang unevenly and create a sloppy appearance.
Solution: Use a seam gauge to ensure consistent seam allowances throughout the construction.

3. Ignoring Fabric Nap

Reason: Ignoring the direction of the fabric nap (the way the fibers lie) can result in a coat that appears patchy or has inconsistent texture.
Solution: Ensure all pattern pieces are cut with the nap running in the same direction.

FAQs

What type of wool is best for a vintage-style coat?
Medium-weight wool, such as melton or a heavier tweed, works best for a structured vintage coat. Lighter wools might lack the necessary body.
Do I need a sewing machine with special features?
A standard sewing machine capable of handling multiple layers of fabric is sufficient. A walking foot can help with feeding thick wool, but isn't strictly necessary.
How important is a precise pattern?
Very important! A well-fitting pattern is crucial for a professional-looking coat. Take your time with accurate measurements and pattern adjustments.