Sewing the Penelope Pleated Top: A Step-by-Step Guide

Updated at: 12/05/2025

The Penelope Pleated Top: a garment that effortlessly blends elegance and simplicity. Its distinctive pleated detailing adds a touch of sophistication, making it perfect for everything from a casual brunch to a sophisticated evening event. This seemingly intricate design is surprisingly achievable, even for beginner sewists, with the right guidance. The delicate pleats create a beautifully flowing silhouette, flattering various body types and offering a unique, handcrafted feel absent from mass-produced clothing.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through each stage of creating your own Penelope Pleated Top, from selecting the right fabric to mastering the final finishing touches. Prepare to be amazed at how easily you can sew this stylish piece; let’s dive into the step-by-step instructions now.

Preparation and Safety Guidelines

Tools Needed
  • sewing machine
  • serger (optional)
  • iron
  • pinking shears (optional)
  • measuring tape
  • pins
  • elastic
Safety Guidelines
  • Always use sharp sewing machine needles and pins appropriate for your fabric type to prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage. Dull needles can cause fabric breakage and injury.
  • Take your time and carefully follow the pattern instructions, especially when pleating. Accurate pleat placement is crucial for the finished garment's appearance.
  • Pre-wash your fabric before cutting and sewing to avoid shrinkage that could alter the fit of your finished Penelope Pleated Top.

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Prepare the Facing

    • Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the facing pieces.
    • Sew the shoulder seams of the facing pieces together.
    • Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges of the facing.
    Finish raw edges of facing: Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges of the facing.Finish raw edges of facing: Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges of the facing.Finish raw edges of facing: Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges of the facing.
    Prepare the Facing

  2. Prepare the Bodice

    • Sew a quarter-inch away from the neckline edge on both front and back pieces.
    • Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces together, right sides together.
    • Press seam allowances open and stitch each separately for a cleaner finish. Alternatively, stitch seam allowances closed and press.
    Finish raw edges of bodice shoulder seams: Press seam allowances open and stitch each separately for a cleaner finish. Alternatively, stitch seam allowances closed and press.Finish raw edges of bodice shoulder seams: Press seam allowances open and stitch each separately for a cleaner finish. Alternatively, stitch seam allowances closed and press.
    Prepare the Bodice

  3. Attach Facing to Bodice

    • Sew the facing to the bodice neckline, right sides together.
    • Trim seam allowance of neckline to prevent bulk.
    • Flip seam allowance towards facing and topstitch to secure.
    • Stitch the facing down at the shoulder seams.
    Tack down facing at shoulder seams: Stitch the facing down at the shoulder seams.Tack down facing at shoulder seams: Stitch the facing down at the shoulder seams.Tack down facing at shoulder seams: Stitch the facing down at the shoulder seams.
    Attach Facing to Bodice

  4. Create Front Pleat

    • Fold a 1-inch section at the front neckline and stitch to secure.
    • Backstitch to hold down the pleat.
    Finish raw edge of outer facing edge: Backstitch to hold down the pleat.Finish raw edge of outer facing edge: Backstitch to hold down the pleat.
    Create Front Pleat

  5. Sew Side Seams

    • Sew the side seams of the bodice, right sides together.
    Sew side seams: Sew the side seams of the bodice, right sides together.
    Sew Side Seams

  6. Prepare and Attach Sleeves

    • Sew the sleeve seams, right sides together.
    • Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges of the sleeve.
    • Insert sleeves into armholes, matching seams and gathering the top of the sleeves to fit.
    Insert sleeves: Insert sleeves into armholes, matching seams and gathering the top of the sleeves to fit.Insert sleeves: Insert sleeves into armholes, matching seams and gathering the top of the sleeves to fit.Insert sleeves: Insert sleeves into armholes, matching seams and gathering the top of the sleeves to fit.
    Prepare and Attach Sleeves

  7. Hem and Finish Sleeves

    • Fold and hem the bottom of the bodice and sleeves. For the sleeves, leave a 2-inch gap for elastic insertion.
    • Insert elastic through the sleeve hem gap, overlap ends, and zigzag stitch to secure. Close the gap.
    Insert and secure elastic into sleeves: Insert elastic through the sleeve hem gap, overlap ends, and zigzag stitch to secure. Close the gap.Insert and secure elastic into sleeves: Insert elastic through the sleeve hem gap, overlap ends, and zigzag stitch to secure. Close the gap.
    Hem and Finish Sleeves

Read more: Raglan Sleeve Sewing Tutorial: A Step-by-Step Guide

Tips

  • Using pinking shears helps prevent fraying.
  • Pressing open seams before stitching creates a flatter, more professional finish.
  • Take it slow while understitching to prevent stitching onto the bodice.
  • Use matching thread color for the pleat stitching, or hand stitch from the back to hide it.
  • Adjust elastic length for desired fit.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Uneven Pleats

Reason: Inconsistent pleat sizes or spacing, leading to an asymmetrical or unbalanced finished garment.
Solution: Carefully measure and mark pleat locations and depths before stitching, using a ruler and pins for precision.

2. Incorrect Shoulder Seam Placement

Reason: Misaligned shoulder seams result in a top that doesn't fit properly across the shoulders and upper back.
Solution: Match notches carefully and ensure both shoulder seams are aligned before stitching them together.

3. Pleats Opening During Sewing

Reason: Pleats can unravel or shift during sewing if not properly secured with pins or temporary stitching.
Solution: Use plenty of pins to hold pleats in place and consider using a basting stitch before final stitching.

FAQs

What type of fabric is best for the Penelope Pleated Top?
Lightweight to medium-weight fabrics with good drape work best. Think rayon challis, silk charmeuse, crepe, or even a soft cotton voile. Avoid anything too stiff or heavy, as it will hinder the pleats' fall and overall drape of the top.